Cusco Cycling

Finally did some serious biking yesterday. I tried to make it to Moray (Incan terraced salt pits, and ancient experimental crop area), but I was way off, so I started trying for the tourist town Urubamba. In the end I ended up off the beaten path in Huayabamba, the next town over, at sun down.

Huayabamba is in a deep valley, and before decending to it I climbed around some less popular ruins. I was completely by myself, almost made it to the peak. From there I could see the boring trucking route into the valley, or alternatively the narrow dirt roads the locals use to access their terraced farms. Of course I came here to do the dirt roads!

It was more of a staircase at times built out of rocks, probably intended for mules and alpaca traffic. I only saw one ancient man using it besides myself. If you want to try it yourself, go north of Chinchero a few miles, 1km past the ruins, you´ll see a dirt road to a very poor but friendly town. Basically you keep to the right, eventually it´ll turn into a farming field, and then a trail.

From there you can somewhat choose your own adventure, there are really steep routes to save time sometimes, tons of switchbacks. It probably took me two hours to get down, almost no pedaling. This road was not on my highway map.

After getting down I realized I was in the wrong town, and the friendliest locals so far helped me get on the bus to Cusco, with my bike stashed up top. I´m not even sure they tied it down.

About 30 seconds into the bus ride we came across tons of broken glass and car parts. A compact car had nailed a graising cow, must have got off his leash. The farmers were trying to do CPR on the cow, but no rescue breathing of course. The windsheild was completely smashed, and seat belts are not popular in this country, so it couldn´t have been good.

The bus was standing room only, so I´m sure everyone on that bus is telling all their friends and family about the massive gringo who could touch the ceiling of the bus with the side of his face. They must have some free source of gasoline, the ride was over an hour, and cost just $1.

In my hostel there are some amazing travelers. One guy rode his motorcycle from Fresno to here. Everyone asks if you can do the panama canal with a car, the answer is that you have to build a crate and ship it DHL. Takes a few days and a few hundred dollars it sounds like.

Another bike touring guy is staying there, he started in Quebec SEVEN YEARS AGO! His name is Hero.

Getting on the road to Puerto Maldonado today or tomorrow. My lungs hurt from yesterday yet.